Cherry Tomatoes Have Arrived, an Update

I've been eating sunberries for some time now (they grow like weeds), and about a week ago the first cherry tomatoes (the fruits) arrived.  They're not yet big enough to eat, but it won't be long.  The best ones are on a plant in a 5-gallon bucket that has a half banana and coffee grounds buried about halfway down in the soil.  That half banana includes the skin, but it wasn't cut up or crushed.  I also lightly sprayed the surface of the soil once a week, starting when the plant was about three feet high, with a solution of greatly diluted white vinegar---about 20 parts water to one part vinegar.  That was done to:  control some tiny, little bitty black flies (a tad bigger than a gnat) that appeared on the soil & the plant; and, to acidify the soil just a bit.  It seemed to work on both counts.

Most of my other tomatoes are on the back porch (a long, open, covered structure with a railing made of 2 X 4s), but several have remained indoors in my "sun room"...including the plant in the 5-gallon bucket.  It has never been outside, is not under any special lights, and was the first one to fruit.  As an experiment, that particular 5-gal bucket had no drainage holes punched in the bottom.  I was very careful with watering... and it worked out fine.  [Probably dumb luck.]

The garlic, strawberries, basil, and spearmint---all in much smaller containers---are coming along very well.  Half are on the back porch, and half in the "sun room" (which only has direct sunlight about four hours per day).  With all the plants, the container total is a little over fifty.

I tried to post a photo here of the cherries, but the Tech Whiz Kids who designed the editing template for this venue don't know how to give directions to a No-Tech guy.  :)  I just couldn't make out how to do it.  There is part of a photo at the top of my YouTube Channel page.  It shows one cluster of five fruits out of a total (so far) of four clusters.  That's all I could fit in the available space.
https://www.youtube.com/user/ScottHaley12
They look great; have a gander.

Happy Trails, and Be Well

Progress Report

See the 1st two photos in the left-hand column here---

[Google keeps moving them around, so one might be in the left column & the other in the right column; in any case, it's the 1st two posts not counting the Art at the top of the page.]

https://plus.google.com/u/0/106763144425245415836/posts

The 1st one shows a dog food bag planter & various vine (indeterminate growth) tomatoes.  The 2nd one shows my 1st two fledgling tomatoes (the fruit) of the season.  Be sure to read the Description above each photo.

Container gardening is fun & rewarding...& all you need to augment the potting soil is a banana, coffee grounds, Epsom Salt, and a little diluted low-fat or no-fat milk.  Those five items plus some plant litter on the soil surface should supply all the nutrients your plants will need.  A little compost is good, too, but not particularly necessary if you use potting soil.

I haven't yet made & posted the YouTube video ("Part Three...Container Gardening") mentioned in the previous post on this Blog... am working up to it... it's a genuine hassle for a No-Tech guy like me.  :)

Happy Trails, and Be Well

Home-Made Liquid Organic Fertilizers

IMPORTANT:  Edited 6-2-16, as follows---
In the original post below, I forgot to mention something very important.  Be sure to give your "tea" a good stir at least a couple times per day.  That will keep it aerated.

This can be done with all kinds of organic matter, separately or all together, and in amounts ranging from one gallon to five gallons...or really, almost any amount.  Essentially, what you do is make organic "tea".  For example, take some coffee grounds---or fresh grass clippings, or dead leaves, or flowers, or wood ash, or dead broken up twigs, or fruit peelings, etc.---and place them on an old piece of cloth.  Tie up the corners of the cloth, thus making a "tea" bag of sorts.  Place the bag in your container, fill that with water, and let the whole thing "steep" for about three or four days.  Keep the container outside or in the garage (or shed, if you have one).  Depending upon what type of organic matter you're using and the ambient temperature, and even though three days is a short span of time, there may be a small amount of unpleasant odor produced.  [There's an old adage:  after three days, fish and visitors stink:]

As with a compost bin or pile, never put any meat scraps in your "tea" bag.  They decompose too slowly and attract scavengers & pests in general.  If you cover your "tea" pail (or whatever container you're using), make sure the lid allows for ventilation; otherwise, your organic "tea" is likely to have harmful anaerobic bacteria in it when it's done steeping.  If you're making a large amount of this liquid fertilizer, let's say in a garbage can, then a burlap sack probably is the handiest item for use as a bag.  For container gardening, as opposed to raised bed gardening, I can't imagine that you'd need to make more than five gallons at a time... and probably less than that.

Liquid organic fertilizer is good for "quick fixes".  If your plants look sickly or stressed, apply the liquid to the soil.  Do some research on the symptoms of plant Nitrogen deficiency, Phosphorus deficiency, Potassium deficiency, etc., then you'll know what type of "tea" to make in each circumstance...see the previous post on this Blog.  [The internet is the world's greatest library.]  Or simply do a Search for "what causes _____________ in [e.g.] tomatoes?".

All this may sound as though it's too much trouble, but it really doesn't take much effort or time.  The rewards are worth it.  Plus, it's always a good thing to recycle

Happy Trails, and Be Well

More Fertilizer Tips...and a Word to Portugal

More on Fertilizing---

Diluted milk can be used in container gardening as a source of calcium.  Take a cup of nonfat (skim) or 1% (fat) milk, add a cup of water, then spread it over the soil in your largest container.  For smaller containers, meaning your smallest & medium-sized ones, use it sparingly...a few tablespoons or so.  You can use whole milk, but then dig a hole about six inches deep before you pour in the diluted milk.  Fill in the hole so that when the milk fat decomposes, the decay stench mostly will stay buried; then it will dissipate at a slower, almost undetectable rate.  Calcium (Ca) is a secondary nutrient for plants, and provides strength or sturdiness to plant tissues.  Magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S) also are secondary nutrients.

Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) can be used to fertilize your plants; a very small bag of it will last a very long time.  Get a small squeeze bottle, put 3 - 4 pinches of Epsom Salt crystals in it, add water, and add a few squirts of the solution to each of your seedling cups...more to larger containers.  Most grocery stores carry Epsom Salt, and probably all drug stores have it.  It's a good, inexpensive source of magnesium and sulfur.

The primary nutrients plants require, also known as macronutrients, are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).  Green plants need large amounts of those.  The secondary nutrients (identified above) are needed in lesser amounts.  Lastly, plants require the following micronutrients in very small amounts:  zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), chloride (a form of chlorine, Cl), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), and boron (B).  That's a total of thirteen main nutrients needed by green plants.

Don't panic!  :)  A good, rich soil---especially potting soil---will provide those nutrients most of the time.  As mentioned before, the problem with container gardening, though, is that there's no way to naturally renew that soil from time to time.  We have to do it by hand.  That can be done three main ways:  totally or partially replace the potting soil in your containers every so often; or fertilize your soil; or a combination of the two previous methods.  I use the third approach; that way, buying new potting soil is not required nearly as often as with never fertilizing.

Fertilizers Can Be Confusing---

We can simplify the subject, as follows.

1.  What are the differences between Organic and Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers?  In one sense, not many; in another sense (which is important), a whole bunch!  These two types of fertilizers are similar only in this regard:  N is N, K is K, Zn is Zn, Ca is Ca, etc...whether they come from plant/animal carcasses (or wastes) or from a chemical processing factory.  Those chemical elements (N, Zn, etc.) are all from stardust...exploding stars.  The huge difference between Organic & Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers is this:  the natural/organic type supplies much more to the soil than just the chemical elements (nutrients); the humus---which contains the elements/nutrients---that makes up the fertilizer is organic matter, and that contributes to soil structure, beneficial microbes, water retention, and the overall health of the plants.  Artificial or synthetic fertilizer, except for supplying chemical elements/nutrients, does none of that.  In fact, it often kills beneficial soil microbes.

2.  Synthetic/Artificial fertilizer is highly concentrated compared to the Organic type; it can "burn" roots, and it leaches fairly quickly down through the soil.  Organic fertilizer nutrients are released slowly from humus, and that's better for plants.

3.  What are some common kinds of Organic fertilizer?  The most common are:  dead plants and/or plant parts (a great source of nitrogen); eggshells (calcium); bone meal (phosphorus & calcium); animal manure (composted or aged, not fresh...nitrogen & phosphorus); wood ash (potassium & calcium); Epsom Salt (magnesium & sulfur); bananas (potassium); and coffee grounds (phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, copper, & calcium).

4.  A few cautions:  coffee grounds are somewhat acidic...research your specific plant for compatibility; except for liquid types (next post), Organic fertilizers take time to release nutrients...plan ahead; and, fresh animal manure can "burn" container garden plants and introduce weed seeds...the heat from composting usually kills weed seeds.

5.  Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers usually do not supply any secondary nutrients or micronutrients.  Most Organic fertilizers supply almost all plant nutrients to one degree or another.  The Synthetics are best suited (if at all) to very large outdoor farming operations.  There really is no good reason to not use natural fertilizer in container gardening.  Plus, Synthetic fertilizer is derived from petroleum; it's a petrochemical.
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A Word to Portugal---

Although we Americans are not totally up on your situation relative to the worldwide Economic Crash, it's my understanding that you (along with at least Greece, Ireland, Spain, and Italy) are suffering the full force of unemployment, austerity, and the weight of lenders being saved instead of your economy.  If I recall correctly, such has been your lot for at least three years or so.  Hang in there.  Recent events in your Land seem to offer some hope for relief.  Keep up the anti-austerity fight.

I mention all this because I noticed several visits to this site from Portugal.  Thanks, and kudos to you.  At times it may not seem like much, but container gardening definitely can help one weather a crisis... not only by providing food, but by refreshing your spirit as well.
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Our next post will be on liquid natural/organic fertilizers...mostly home-made.

Happy Trails, and Be Well

Part Three: Gardening Containers... and Fertilizer Tips

End of Gardening Containers---

6.  Any suitable plastic jug... following the instructions on previous posts, simply cut off the top, cut holes in the bottom for drainage, and supply a catch basin (saucer, tray, lid, or a slightly larger, shorter container) for excess drainage.  We've used everything from empty coffee cans---including metal ones---to various empty cleaning fluid/liquid containers.  With something like a vehicle windshield washing fluid jug, be sure to rinse thoroughly.

7.  Plastic tubs of varying sizes... the Dollar Store, Family Dollar, and other stores have fairly inexpensive tubs.  With the larger ones (they range up to 18 - 20 gallons), you'll have to drill holes for drainage.  Often the plastic is either too thick or too hard & brittle to cut with a knife.

8.  Galvanized metal tubs... a bit pricey when new, but often used ones can be found at yard sales, on Craigslist, or at Swap Meets (Flea Markets) at very reasonable prices.  If they don't have holes in the bottom, you'll have to drill some.

9.  Buckets/pails...from 2.5 to 5 gallons...like large tubs, these too are the final homes for your plants.  My organic farmer friend in California, Alex, thinks that three gallons should be the minimum size.  I'm experimenting with 2.5 gallons and so far, things look good; but Alex is probably correct.  We have to be careful that the plants don't get root-bound from lack of space; if they do, usually they don't die, but production of fruit is greatly reduced.  If the bucket is smaller than 5 gallons, usually you can cut the drainage holes with a knife.

10.  The very best containers, of course, are the old terra cotta clay plant pots...all sizes.  Unfortunately, there are some HUGE disadvantages:  the cost; plus, these pots are relatively easy to break; and, in this day & age, they are somewhat difficult to find.  The main advantage is that they breathe...air goes in & out of them through the sides.  If you can find some used ones that aren't cracked or broken (at a reasonable price), grab them up.

Beginning of Fertilizer Tips---

Potting soil is very rich in plant nutrients, but it's somewhat limited because it's isolated in a container; in other words, there's no source of additional nutrition coming into the container naturally.  So as nutrients get "used up" (incorporated into plants), there's no animal waste, very little, if any, green manure from dying/dead plants, no runoff from hillsides, etc. to replace what's gone from the soil.  Therefore, depending on the size of the container & how soon the plant will mature (& other variables), it's often a good idea for us to add certain nutrients to our container soil.  It's best to stick with natural fertilizer whenever possible, as follows.

Just before you plant seeds in a tray or cup(s) for germination, add the following to the soil (bury these things) in your largest containers...the ones which will be the final homes for your plants:
1.  ground up or crushed eggshells (a source of calcium);
2.  used coffee grounds (a source of various nutrients, including calcium); and
3.  a sliced up banana with the skin on it (a source of various nutrients, including potassium).
Work all that well into the soil.  In a 5-gallon bucket, that won't take more than five or so minutes at most.  By the time your seedlings get large enough to be transplanted into the large containers, the organic fertilizer material you added to the soil should be at the point of becoming humus.  The nutrients then will be released slowly to your plants.  [Depending upon a bunch of variables, some unknown amount of these nutrients may not be plant-ready until the next season; therefore, preparing these final buckets 6 - 8 months in advance isn't a bad idea at all.  Another option is to bury a whole banana and a whole egg about six inches down in a 5-gallon bucket...8 or so months before germinating in different containers.]

More on fertilizing next time.  Happy Trails, and Be Well