More Fertilizer Tips...and a Word to Portugal

More on Fertilizing---

Diluted milk can be used in container gardening as a source of calcium.  Take a cup of nonfat (skim) or 1% (fat) milk, add a cup of water, then spread it over the soil in your largest container.  For smaller containers, meaning your smallest & medium-sized ones, use it sparingly...a few tablespoons or so.  You can use whole milk, but then dig a hole about six inches deep before you pour in the diluted milk.  Fill in the hole so that when the milk fat decomposes, the decay stench mostly will stay buried; then it will dissipate at a slower, almost undetectable rate.  Calcium (Ca) is a secondary nutrient for plants, and provides strength or sturdiness to plant tissues.  Magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S) also are secondary nutrients.

Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) can be used to fertilize your plants; a very small bag of it will last a very long time.  Get a small squeeze bottle, put 3 - 4 pinches of Epsom Salt crystals in it, add water, and add a few squirts of the solution to each of your seedling cups...more to larger containers.  Most grocery stores carry Epsom Salt, and probably all drug stores have it.  It's a good, inexpensive source of magnesium and sulfur.

The primary nutrients plants require, also known as macronutrients, are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).  Green plants need large amounts of those.  The secondary nutrients (identified above) are needed in lesser amounts.  Lastly, plants require the following micronutrients in very small amounts:  zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), chloride (a form of chlorine, Cl), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), and boron (B).  That's a total of thirteen main nutrients needed by green plants.

Don't panic!  :)  A good, rich soil---especially potting soil---will provide those nutrients most of the time.  As mentioned before, the problem with container gardening, though, is that there's no way to naturally renew that soil from time to time.  We have to do it by hand.  That can be done three main ways:  totally or partially replace the potting soil in your containers every so often; or fertilize your soil; or a combination of the two previous methods.  I use the third approach; that way, buying new potting soil is not required nearly as often as with never fertilizing.

Fertilizers Can Be Confusing---

We can simplify the subject, as follows.

1.  What are the differences between Organic and Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers?  In one sense, not many; in another sense (which is important), a whole bunch!  These two types of fertilizers are similar only in this regard:  N is N, K is K, Zn is Zn, Ca is Ca, etc...whether they come from plant/animal carcasses (or wastes) or from a chemical processing factory.  Those chemical elements (N, Zn, etc.) are all from stardust...exploding stars.  The huge difference between Organic & Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers is this:  the natural/organic type supplies much more to the soil than just the chemical elements (nutrients); the humus---which contains the elements/nutrients---that makes up the fertilizer is organic matter, and that contributes to soil structure, beneficial microbes, water retention, and the overall health of the plants.  Artificial or synthetic fertilizer, except for supplying chemical elements/nutrients, does none of that.  In fact, it often kills beneficial soil microbes.

2.  Synthetic/Artificial fertilizer is highly concentrated compared to the Organic type; it can "burn" roots, and it leaches fairly quickly down through the soil.  Organic fertilizer nutrients are released slowly from humus, and that's better for plants.

3.  What are some common kinds of Organic fertilizer?  The most common are:  dead plants and/or plant parts (a great source of nitrogen); eggshells (calcium); bone meal (phosphorus & calcium); animal manure (composted or aged, not fresh...nitrogen & phosphorus); wood ash (potassium & calcium); Epsom Salt (magnesium & sulfur); bananas (potassium); and coffee grounds (phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, copper, & calcium).

4.  A few cautions:  coffee grounds are somewhat acidic...research your specific plant for compatibility; except for liquid types (next post), Organic fertilizers take time to release nutrients...plan ahead; and, fresh animal manure can "burn" container garden plants and introduce weed seeds...the heat from composting usually kills weed seeds.

5.  Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers usually do not supply any secondary nutrients or micronutrients.  Most Organic fertilizers supply almost all plant nutrients to one degree or another.  The Synthetics are best suited (if at all) to very large outdoor farming operations.  There really is no good reason to not use natural fertilizer in container gardening.  Plus, Synthetic fertilizer is derived from petroleum; it's a petrochemical.
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A Word to Portugal---

Although we Americans are not totally up on your situation relative to the worldwide Economic Crash, it's my understanding that you (along with at least Greece, Ireland, Spain, and Italy) are suffering the full force of unemployment, austerity, and the weight of lenders being saved instead of your economy.  If I recall correctly, such has been your lot for at least three years or so.  Hang in there.  Recent events in your Land seem to offer some hope for relief.  Keep up the anti-austerity fight.

I mention all this because I noticed several visits to this site from Portugal.  Thanks, and kudos to you.  At times it may not seem like much, but container gardening definitely can help one weather a crisis... not only by providing food, but by refreshing your spirit as well.
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Our next post will be on liquid natural/organic fertilizers...mostly home-made.

Happy Trails, and Be Well

Part Three: Gardening Containers... and Fertilizer Tips

End of Gardening Containers---

6.  Any suitable plastic jug... following the instructions on previous posts, simply cut off the top, cut holes in the bottom for drainage, and supply a catch basin (saucer, tray, lid, or a slightly larger, shorter container) for excess drainage.  We've used everything from empty coffee cans---including metal ones---to various empty cleaning fluid/liquid containers.  With something like a vehicle windshield washing fluid jug, be sure to rinse thoroughly.

7.  Plastic tubs of varying sizes... the Dollar Store, Family Dollar, and other stores have fairly inexpensive tubs.  With the larger ones (they range up to 18 - 20 gallons), you'll have to drill holes for drainage.  Often the plastic is either too thick or too hard & brittle to cut with a knife.

8.  Galvanized metal tubs... a bit pricey when new, but often used ones can be found at yard sales, on Craigslist, or at Swap Meets (Flea Markets) at very reasonable prices.  If they don't have holes in the bottom, you'll have to drill some.

9.  Buckets/pails...from 2.5 to 5 gallons...like large tubs, these too are the final homes for your plants.  My organic farmer friend in California, Alex, thinks that three gallons should be the minimum size.  I'm experimenting with 2.5 gallons and so far, things look good; but Alex is probably correct.  We have to be careful that the plants don't get root-bound from lack of space; if they do, usually they don't die, but production of fruit is greatly reduced.  If the bucket is smaller than 5 gallons, usually you can cut the drainage holes with a knife.

10.  The very best containers, of course, are the old terra cotta clay plant pots...all sizes.  Unfortunately, there are some HUGE disadvantages:  the cost; plus, these pots are relatively easy to break; and, in this day & age, they are somewhat difficult to find.  The main advantage is that they breathe...air goes in & out of them through the sides.  If you can find some used ones that aren't cracked or broken (at a reasonable price), grab them up.

Beginning of Fertilizer Tips---

Potting soil is very rich in plant nutrients, but it's somewhat limited because it's isolated in a container; in other words, there's no source of additional nutrition coming into the container naturally.  So as nutrients get "used up" (incorporated into plants), there's no animal waste, very little, if any, green manure from dying/dead plants, no runoff from hillsides, etc. to replace what's gone from the soil.  Therefore, depending on the size of the container & how soon the plant will mature (& other variables), it's often a good idea for us to add certain nutrients to our container soil.  It's best to stick with natural fertilizer whenever possible, as follows.

Just before you plant seeds in a tray or cup(s) for germination, add the following to the soil (bury these things) in your largest containers...the ones which will be the final homes for your plants:
1.  ground up or crushed eggshells (a source of calcium);
2.  used coffee grounds (a source of various nutrients, including calcium); and
3.  a sliced up banana with the skin on it (a source of various nutrients, including potassium).
Work all that well into the soil.  In a 5-gallon bucket, that won't take more than five or so minutes at most.  By the time your seedlings get large enough to be transplanted into the large containers, the organic fertilizer material you added to the soil should be at the point of becoming humus.  The nutrients then will be released slowly to your plants.  [Depending upon a bunch of variables, some unknown amount of these nutrients may not be plant-ready until the next season; therefore, preparing these final buckets 6 - 8 months in advance isn't a bad idea at all.  Another option is to bury a whole banana and a whole egg about six inches down in a 5-gallon bucket...8 or so months before germinating in different containers.]

More on fertilizing next time.  Happy Trails, and Be Well

Part Two: Gardening Containers...

4.  Clean out an empty plastic jelly jar and follow the steps in 2. & 3. (previous post).  Cleaning is a snap:  put a dash of dish soap in the empty jar and fill it with hot water.  Let it stand for about an hour or so.  Then empty and rinse thoroughly.  In most cases (as with most plastic food jars), you'll need to punch the holes in the bottom along the edge of the bottom.  That's because a jar of food that's relatively heavy usually has somewhat of a dome inside on the bottom...for container strength.  In other words, the outside of the bottom is concave, and the inside is convex.  We want the drainage holes in the lowest portion of the bottom, which is along the edge in this case.  When making those holes with a knife, once the tip of the knife has pierced the plastic about a quarter to one-third of an inch or so, twist the knife a bit.  That will widen the slit, thus making for better drainage.  [A sturdy pocket knife is best for this; twisting will warp/bend some steak knives completely out of shape.]  Be careful not to stab yourself; this operation is the most likely time that you'll do it.  If you have an electric drill, that's a good option.  Use safety glasses.

5.  Dry dog food bags for small dogs or puppies (and dry cat food bags) that have only 3 -5 pounds of food in them usually are lined with plastic, or are made of mylar, or are waterproof in some other manner.  Those bags make great gardening containers.  Cut holes in the bottom of the empty bag, then use the bottom half of a gallon milk jug or something similar for containment of excess drainage.  The bottom half of a milk jug is the perfect size for most of these small pet food bags.
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Among other places, currently Venezuela and Argentina (to a somewhat lesser extent) are experiencing an economic and/or financial collapse.  One of the main things in short supply, especially in Venezuela, is food.  The whole world is in the midst of an economic downturn.  Despite the Propaganda to the contrary, the USA already is in a Recession... and most probably headed for a Depression.  Take up Container Gardening; it will help.

Be Prepared, and Be Well

Gardening Containers for the Precariat, or Soon-To-Be Precariat

Perhaps Brits, because of the economist Guy Standing, may be more familiar with the term, "the Precariat", than are the rest of us in the world.  It refers to a growing group, "those leading increasingly precarious lives", thanks primarily to Globalization, Financialization, and the Rule of the Plutocrats.  Currently, most of us are either already in or about to be in that group.  That's one reason I've created this blog.

In order to post more often, we're going to shorten each piece; so for example, this article will cover only two or three of the many gardening containers you probably already own.  More containers will be listed in succeeding posts.  As I am a very slow, hunt & peck typist, that will enable me to post articles every other day or so.  :)
Let's begin.

1.  Take an empty gallon-jug plastic milk carton, turn it on its side, & cut it approximately in half.  With a sharp knife, cut a slit just below the bottom end of the handle.  Then either continue cutting around the jug with the knife, or insert any regular pair of scissors into the slit and do the same.  The top half (without the cap) can be used as a mini-greenhouse.  You'll need two bottoms.  With the tip of the knife, cut holes in the lowest portion of one of the bottoms to facilitate drainage of excess water.  Nest that one inside the second bottom, which will serve as secondary containment of excess water.  Even though the bottoms basically are the same size, they are so flexible that the nesting is done easily...the inner bottom will crimp in places so that it fits into the outer one.  This new "pot" would be one to use on your first transplant from a germinating tray or a small cup.

[I don't mind that my containers have the old labels on the outside--- vinegar, Creamland Dairy, or whatever.  If you're into both form and function, you can always paint the outside of the homemade pots, or attach decorative cloth to them, or do something similar.]

2,   Take an empty two-quart plastic vinegar bottle and follow a similar procedure as described above.  The primary difference is that your container is not cut in half; the cutting takes place about two-thirds of the way up toward the top...where the jug starts to narrow.  If it has a built-in handle, the first slit would again be just below the bottom end of that handle.  Punch holes in the lowest portion of the bottom again, but this time you'll have to find a lid, or saucer, or tray of some sort to use as a catch basin for excess drainage.  [I've never tried nesting two of these pots, but maybe it's possible.]  This is another home-made pot that would be good for your initial transplant of some seedling out of the germinating tray or small cup (after the true leaves have developed).  Again, the top portion of the original container can be used--- without the cap --- as a mini-greenhouse...for seedlings recently germinated, and perhaps in an area that's sometimes a bit too cool.

3.  Do the same procedure with any size Miracle Whip or Mayonnaise jar...the smallest ones can be used as germinating cups, the largest ones used for your initial transplant from a germinating tray or cup.  This time, though, unless you have some heavy-duty scissors, all the cutting will have to be done with a sharp knife.  Those jars are a much heavier plastic.  Wear gloves and be especially careful not to stab yourself...cutting a round container with a sharp knife can be tricky.

More to come.

Happy Trails, and Be Well

Container Gardening Overview

You can do this!  We'll show you how.  I'm using "We" not only in the editorial sense, but also because it's my hope that people with gardening experience will comment on this venue.  Actually, whether you're experienced or not, please join in the conversation.  If I recall correctly, one has to "join" Blogger in order to comment; that's true on most venues.  Unfortunately, I suspect it discourages some folks from participating.  If you don't care to join, you may email me: abstractcowboy@gmail.com and I'll summarize your views and/or answer your questions in a future posting.
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If you don't have a "Mother Plant" from which to take cuttings (& later put in soil), then you start with seeds.  I like to experiment, so I have a variety of different seeds---Heirloom, Organic-certified, and plain old seeds off-the-rack, so to speak.  Don't use Monsanto seeds; more on that later.  In any case, it helps if you soak your seeds from 6 - 8 hours before planting.  That way, they germinate a lot faster.  [That's especially true in the case of Sprouting-for-Food.  Don't ignore Sprouting; sprouts are delicious on a sandwich or as a salad.]  Then let them dry out enough to where you can separate and manipulate them for planting in soil.  A seed has three basic components:  the plant embryo, endosperm (mostly starch, some protein, enzymes, & oils), and a covering.  It doesn't need light to germinate, but some warmth is required.  I mention all this because it's important to avoid planting seeds too deep.  With green plants, the embryo has to pierce the surface of the soil, shed the seed covering, and unfold the seed leaves before it runs out of endosperm (nutrition for growth).  It's better to plant too shallow than too deep.

You'll need a variety of containers...many you can recycle from your kitchen.  I'll give lots of specifics on that in the next post.  If you germinate seeds in a tray of some sort, I've found that it's not necessary to cut holes in the bottom of the container.  It doesn't take much watering to germinate seeds that have been soaked.  If you germinate in a cup (which usually has more depth than a tray), then it's best to cut holes in the bottom of the container.  That's because gravity will pull most of the water to the bottom of the cup, out-of-reach of the seed/embryo/seedling/root.  You'll have to water more often than you would with a shallower tray; we have to get rid of the excess drainage, hence the holes in the bottom.  Don't forget to have a saucer, old lid, or something else to capture the excess water...so you don't stain your window sill, or deck, or wherever your container resides.  After the seedling has pierced the soil surface, the first two leaves you'll see are the "seed leaves"; before transplanting to a somewhat larger container, wait for the "true leaves" to be in full "flower", so to speak.  They almost always are a different shape than the seed leaves.  The goal is to eventually get your plant into a fairly large container...its permanent home.  Opinions vary as to how many transplants will be required.  Many people say only one.  I think at least two, which means three different-sized containers...each one progressively larger & deeper.  But don't panic--- transplanting is easy, and most of these containers you own already.

There are different types of soil, and we need to be aware of them.  Some container and raised-bed gardeners pooh-pooh the use of natural, un-sterilized, outdoor soil.  I see their point relative to possible soil pests and harmful bacteria, but farmers have been using natural soil for thousands of years.  It can't be all bad.  A good outdoor soil is about 45% minerals, 25% air, 25% water, and only 5% humus (partially decayed organic matter).  To me, that 5% humus is the main drawback to its use in container gardening.  Plants in containers need more humus (nutrients) than that because they don't have the advantage of having nutrients added naturally (by animals, falling leaves, decaying ground vegetation, soil being washed down from higher places, etc.) the way outdoor plants do.  I've put a shallow layer of outdoor soil in the bottom of my largest containers---thus saving on potting soil to a degree---and I see no ill effects thus far.  So for your containers, I suggest that bottom layer in the largest ones, then add a mixture of mostly potting soil plus some mulch (plant litter) & even a little compost closer to the surface.  Compost is humus that you make yourself.  For container gardening, you don't need much (perhaps make some in a 5-gallon bucket), or really, you don't need any at all...because potting soil is rich in humus.  If you do make some compost in a bucket (or in a pile out back), though, make certain you aerate the layers every so often...or else you'll get harmful anaerobic bacteria.  Aerate those layers by turning them over every so often.  Finally, though not totally necessary, it's somewhat helpful to have some litmus paper strips (or a small soil testing kit) in order to test your soil for its pH level---alkalinity versus acidity.  The pH scale runs from 0 to 14, 7 being neutral; less than 7 means increasing degrees of acidity...more than 7, increasing degrees of alkalinity.  Plants vary as to which pH level is optimum for them; sometimes the back of the seed packet will tell you the optimum level.  If it doesn't, you have the world's greatest library right in front of you.  :)  Honestly, though, I've never worried too much about pH levels.  In general, soils in the West (USA) usually are alkaline to some degree, while those in the East (USA again) are acidic to varying degrees.  The MidWest is all over the place.  In a future post, we'll go into how to alter the pH of your container soil.  Potting soil usually is not either extremely acidic or extremely alkaline...that's one reason I've never been too concerned with pH.

As to watering, never water so much that the liquid is pooled on the soil surface.  That's too much.  On the other hand, except for a germinating tray, give your container plants and soil a good soaking when you do water.  Don't water every day; the soil needs to alternate between being watered and being allowed to get almost dry.  That cycle helps with disease and soil compaction prevention; it also helps soil aeration.  Your plants will show you when they need to be watered; at the first sign of wilting, water again.  For larger plants in the largest containers, that might be only once or twice a week...maybe three times, depending on a bunch of variables (temperature, humidity, type of plant, wind---if they're on a deck or patio, etc.).  If they aren't already there, don't forget to have holes punched in the bottom of your containers.  Finally, in the case of fruiting plants (say, tomatoes, as opposed to lettuce or basil), once those yummies come into being, your plants will need a bit more water...that is to say, they'll have to be watered more often because of the "fruit".

Happy Trails, and Be Well

Brief Introduction...and Stimulation

At the site individualsovereignty, I've been on blogspot for a little over nine years.  That site is devoted to politics, economics, and government.  As you can see, I'm changing horses.  We're going to explore how to significantly improve our lives...one container at a time.  Please join me.

Not counting sprouting (which I've done for decades), I've been doing container gardening for only a short time.  Nevertheless, because I now have about 50 plants in containers and perhaps because of my background and experience in related matters, we're going to learn a ton of useful information here.  Plus, if you're new to gardening, you'll find the "work" (really, FUN) very mentally and spiritually refreshing.

We'll begin with a short, general overview of the whole process and then go in-depth on topics such as seeds, soils, mulch, containers, organic fertilizer (mostly home-made), more containers (ones you've already paid for), transplanting, and watering.  The great thing about container gardening is that you essentially eliminate two of the biggest pains relative to gardening:  weeds, and insect pests.  In addition, you virtually eliminate (in most cases) wind damage, rain damage, and hail damage.  Any worry over the weather is 99% gone.  We'll learn how to garden at the absolute lowest cost...both stress-wise and monetarily.

I have two videos (more to come) on my YouTube Channel about container gardening, but it's difficult to go into very much detail there because people expect relatively short clips.  If interested, do a YouTube Search for:  Scott Haley container gardening.  [If you use only my name, you'll get a gazillion clips on Haley Scott, a female actor & singer:]  On this venue, we can go into much more detail.  I'll do my best to post a piece at least three times a week...barring unforeseen circumstances.

Take up gardening.  This kind of it can be done by anyone living anywhere.  It will boost your spirit, clear your mind, and save you money.

Happy Trails, and Be Well.

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