More on Fertilizing---
Diluted milk can be used in container gardening as a source of calcium. Take a cup of nonfat (skim) or 1% (fat) milk, add a cup of water, then spread it over the soil in your largest container. For smaller containers, meaning your smallest & medium-sized ones, use it sparingly...a few tablespoons or so. You can use whole milk, but then dig a hole about six inches deep before you pour in the diluted milk. Fill in the hole so that when the milk fat decomposes, the decay stench mostly will stay buried; then it will dissipate at a slower, almost undetectable rate. Calcium (Ca) is a secondary nutrient for plants, and provides strength or sturdiness to plant tissues. Magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S) also are secondary nutrients.
Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) can be used to fertilize your plants; a very small bag of it will last a very long time. Get a small squeeze bottle, put 3 - 4 pinches of Epsom Salt crystals in it, add water, and add a few squirts of the solution to each of your seedling cups...more to larger containers. Most grocery stores carry Epsom Salt, and probably all drug stores have it. It's a good, inexpensive source of magnesium and sulfur.
The primary nutrients plants require, also known as macronutrients, are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Green plants need large amounts of those. The secondary nutrients (identified above) are needed in lesser amounts. Lastly, plants require the following micronutrients in very small amounts: zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), chloride (a form of chlorine, Cl), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), and boron (B). That's a total of thirteen main nutrients needed by green plants.
Don't panic! :) A good, rich soil---especially potting soil---will provide those nutrients most of the time. As mentioned before, the problem with container gardening, though, is that there's no way to naturally renew that soil from time to time. We have to do it by hand. That can be done three main ways: totally or partially replace the potting soil in your containers every so often; or fertilize your soil; or a combination of the two previous methods. I use the third approach; that way, buying new potting soil is not required nearly as often as with never fertilizing.
Fertilizers Can Be Confusing---
We can simplify the subject, as follows.
1. What are the differences between Organic and Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers? In one sense, not many; in another sense (which is important), a whole bunch! These two types of fertilizers are similar only in this regard: N is N, K is K, Zn is Zn, Ca is Ca, etc...whether they come from plant/animal carcasses (or wastes) or from a chemical processing factory. Those chemical elements (N, Zn, etc.) are all from stardust...exploding stars. The huge difference between Organic & Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers is this: the natural/organic type supplies much more to the soil than just the chemical elements (nutrients); the humus---which contains the elements/nutrients---that makes up the fertilizer is organic matter, and that contributes to soil structure, beneficial microbes, water retention, and the overall health of the plants. Artificial or synthetic fertilizer, except for supplying chemical elements/nutrients, does none of that. In fact, it often kills beneficial soil microbes.
2. Synthetic/Artificial fertilizer is highly concentrated compared to the Organic type; it can "burn" roots, and it leaches fairly quickly down through the soil. Organic fertilizer nutrients are released slowly from humus, and that's better for plants.
3. What are some common kinds of Organic fertilizer? The most common are: dead plants and/or plant parts (a great source of nitrogen); eggshells (calcium); bone meal (phosphorus & calcium); animal manure (composted or aged, not fresh...nitrogen & phosphorus); wood ash (potassium & calcium); Epsom Salt (magnesium & sulfur); bananas (potassium); and coffee grounds (phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, copper, & calcium).
4. A few cautions: coffee grounds are somewhat acidic...research your specific plant for compatibility; except for liquid types (next post), Organic fertilizers take time to release nutrients...plan ahead; and, fresh animal manure can "burn" container garden plants and introduce weed seeds...the heat from composting usually kills weed seeds.
5. Artificial/Synthetic fertilizers usually do not supply any secondary nutrients or micronutrients. Most Organic fertilizers supply almost all plant nutrients to one degree or another. The Synthetics are best suited (if at all) to very large outdoor farming operations. There really is no good reason to not use natural fertilizer in container gardening. Plus, Synthetic fertilizer is derived from petroleum; it's a petrochemical.
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A Word to Portugal---
Although we Americans are not totally up on your situation relative to the worldwide Economic Crash, it's my understanding that you (along with at least Greece, Ireland, Spain, and Italy) are suffering the full force of unemployment, austerity, and the weight of lenders being saved instead of your economy. If I recall correctly, such has been your lot for at least three years or so. Hang in there. Recent events in your Land seem to offer some hope for relief. Keep up the anti-austerity fight.
I mention all this because I noticed several visits to this site from Portugal. Thanks, and kudos to you. At times it may not seem like much, but container gardening definitely can help one weather a crisis... not only by providing food, but by refreshing your spirit as well.
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Our next post will be on liquid natural/organic fertilizers...mostly home-made.
Happy Trails, and Be Well
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